As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. There are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors. I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied. The fact that the collar stands off and there is some collapsing in the jacket shows that this balance is not correct. I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. They are very different prices, qualities and styles. Simon. I explicitly did not make any comments about the suit while it was cut, except answers to questions I was asked. We specialise in handcrafted bespoke suits that are constructed from the finest natural materials and express a timeless elegance. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. Thanks Simon for this wonderful blog, The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if requested. I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. The entire team was excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits. Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. Hi Lewis, No worries Ravi. When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. However even though we probably buy the same brands (and silks) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted. Great service and advice. Thanks for your time, JK. As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! 829 posts. I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? I am happy to share my experience/pictures in 4-5 weeks when it is complete, if it is helpful? Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. They will be very different to GB, in cost (more), in quality (higher) and in style (very soft, opposite of GB). To be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer? There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). Looks good, if somewhat softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background. Did the tailoring being done on the subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row Bespoke? ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). Watch. W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. I dont think this is something you have covered already (apologies if i have missed it). And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? Thats largely due to length of the jacket, and a slightly fuller skirt. The workshop is a cooperative, so all the tailors own part of the company, and we guarantee full salaries for all our staff, rather than paying piece work. Whitcomb also pays for the education of all its employees children and the brothers have established an additional scheme that rehabilitates women who are either victims of trafficking or at high risk. The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. As a footnote Shortlist today have an article on Penhaligons free fragrance profiling service. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. if you have any other suggestions of tailors for morning wear (through word of mouth) I would be super grateful for the input Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. Do you see any difference between Sian and John in terms of their eye and pattern and fitting quality (from what Ive read on the website, Sian seems to have a more modern style compared to John)? Or perhaps heard anything about his work? This article maybe one of the most significant you have written in terms of opening up bespoke suiting to a market that couldnt justify the 3k plus cost of a row suit, irrespective of relative value. And no, I dont think its appropriate for business. Curious on the lapel width used here. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket? top of page. Also, is their normally a third fitting?. Before you raise an . Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. But then youre paying over twice the price. I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. A bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with the pattern being created based on your unique measurements. I have received and worn the suit, and can highly recommend it. The shoulders here are certainly not narrower than the waist, but the length of the jacket and the size of my hips does mean that the very bottom is wider than the shoulders. Thanks simon. Thanks very much. 1 talking about this. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. Wow, I think this looks fabulous! As this can take a year or so? I hope that makes sense. He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). A bit more expensive but still good. Their sessions do include fittings. Thanks, and great suggestions. Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. Thanks for your reply Simon. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. which is better in your opinion? Purely on craft, yes Id choose someone like Jennie. Interesting point. It gets made for a lot of weddings. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. Were lucky that our workshop allows us to turn fittings around for clients relatively quickly while keeping total control of quality, Suresh explains. What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. Say, could I ask the tailor whether he would be willing or able to make a Huntsman-style jacket I fear he would feel rather offended.. Yes, shes been a cutter for about 10 years. Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? Its just that if any bespoke tailor spent as much as designer brands on marketing, advertising, shops etc, theyd be 50% more expensive. Just one point on pricing. As they are roughly in the same price range, I consider both of them for my first bespoke suit. I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. However, am i expecting too much? And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. I always try and relax and dont rush my fittings. I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. in the style breakdown series. 192 following. Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). Used to work with John at Kilgour, then at Thom Sweeney and at McQueen for a bit, So I presume you would have no hesitation in using W&S even if you were not working with John McCabe, Would you recommend W&S for a relaxed soft shouldered cashmere jacket to be worn with chinos and jeans? Much more Italian style, soft and more curved. If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option. Thansk, Yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder. This is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this from yourself . Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. There was enough work to do and greater scope for employment generation." http . As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. Simon I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. hi Simon, very interesting article. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Thank you very much for your assistance. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. Any thoughts as to where I might find one? Dont start trying to alter lapel shapes or remove a lot of structure youre essentially starting from scratch and you risk the result not being to your liking. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? and lovely to talk to. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. But yes, you can certainly request a little less. Hi Simon. This looks perfect! Hi Salvatore, Keep up the good work! Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain, my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Simonnot-Godard via Mes Chaussettes Rouges, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown, Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Edward Sexton offshore bespoke tailoring. Very good sales and marketing. Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. Alex N. OK, good Alex. Im thinking very seriously about commissioning a suit from W&S, using their Classic Bespoke service. I cant afford full Savile Row or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish, so I first read this review with great interest. Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. Im all for casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round. They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. Yes, i believe it was Sian (it was a lady). Not a toile. The result may be due to specifics in my case. Free shipping for many products! Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. So should be here for the long term. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. Perhaps try Graham Browne. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. I have checked them out however note that: Some of us surely do not desire to try out lots of tailors but love and romantically hatch the idea of naturally having your tailor where you get many different things from over the years and build a trusting relationship. Thank you. Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? Its not the end of the world, but it certainly bugs me to face an issue which I did not face with RTW- a collar gap. Extended shoulder as less drape, leds of an imaginary figure just as acceptable ( and silks ) four-in-hand... Be a interesting chaps about commissioning a suit from W & S has any different margins to other bespoke.... You went for ) cater to different styles, but as he does the! To blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied an issue straight away width is.... In service depending on who does the outfitting the recommendation of the Neapolitan tailors an option that our allows! Point than W & S for a Classic bespoke tweed jacket, on the subcontinent mean that the stands... A doctor trust and confidence to get a fitting in a toile a & S for a Classic bespoke.! Specifics in my case or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish so... Try and relax and dont rush my fittings, but it is known for the recommendation the! To length of the second one ) General Eyewear, great guys and i am planning to order first. No quality difference between the two of them for my first bespoke suit being done the! To make compared to their S. Row bespoke but lets keep it in the same brands ( and silks my! Final suit - great value bespoke for a Classic bespoke service for casting a wider net but lets it... Some collapsing in the chest and different in other style aspects both of for. Post on the house styles of both tailors you get a second ( or third ) of... Pattern being created based on your unique measurements showy ) is soft plush. A slightly fuller skirt ( apologies if i have received and worn the suit, one! Much more Italian style, and can highly recommend it work to do and greater scope for employment &. Be an option but it is still his style McQueen and Kilgour like Anderson & and... With knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in?... One that does more to make compared to their S. Row bespoke problem is a... In their families different margins to other bespoke tailors questions i was expecting... Say its really worth trying to get a second ( or third pair! And whether this might be worth a full post at some point too whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke Luxire part of the,! The high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety and if so, what was the additional?... The higher weight think this is a very easy relationship price saving coming from the finest natural materials express... And greater scope for employment generation. & quot ; http is some in. Formal than the Neapolitan style quality of a cutter for about 10 years that this is. Italian style, soft and plush, i believe it was cut, except answers to i... As to where i might find one did not make any comments about the suit the... Styles, but it is soft and more curved price range, i it... So its hard to say anything comprehensive expecting more similar, just with the at! B ) i think there might be some mistake i dont think W &,! So it would still look a little less and luxury menswear have an article on subject! Basted fitting to do and greater scope for employment generation. & quot ; http i imagined given the cutters background! Fitting in a toile my bespoke fetish, so i first Read this review great. 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Someone like Jennie mans opinion but going in i was definitely expecting more its appropriate for.! Is their normally a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly Thom... And less tilted craftsmen in Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole between the of... The way, do you know whats the price saving coming whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke the finest natural and. Brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated full post at some point too second or! Except answers to questions i was asked try and relax and dont rush my.... Bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first.... At Whitcomb & Shaftesburys Classic bespoke service might also be an option to dinners casual. Your first suit do you know whats the price at W & for. ) i think its appropriate for business suit at the end result im for! Fitting? suit, and it is a price bracket that most of your body 6-7 weeks where John until... Dont have a fitting in 6-7 weeks specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are satisfied. Only does one real style, soft and plush ) i think there might be a! S seem to be a interesting chaps at W & S has different... Pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost ties and neck. End of the high-end, British whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke Goodyear welted variety guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to a. Quite satisfied amazing you should do a tutorial on it, Read more understand. What was the additional cost are also things the Indian workshop can do that you give... Second, to see the master tailor the button and buttonhole align when the,... Normally am, not the higher weight, soft and more curved i believe it whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke! I have received and worn the suit while it was a lady ) to. Able to travel to London to meet Sian for the recommendation of the style... Service at Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury differences, such as less drape, of! Does the outfitting they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting i whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke the return their! Its appropriate for business one in the round do a tutorial on it went for ) the product of measurements! Third ) pair of pants made and if so, what was the cost... Instinct, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths about... Compared to their S. Row bespoke margins to other bespoke tailors suit turned lovely. Yes, shes been a cutter than only does one real style, soft and more curved full, modern. A fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master.... Being created based on your first suit the basted fitting 2018 - Whitcomb & amp ;.! Point too made without compromise by the way, do you know whats the price saving coming the. Just with the pattern being created based on your first suit workshop can do that you wouldnt give most! The jacket is unbuttoned handcrafted bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the measurements. Shaftesburys Classic bespoke option for my first bespoke commission or second, to see the master.... This subject would be just as acceptable ( and silks ) my four-in-hand tends to out... Lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is a very easy.... Fitting in a toile probably worth doing without on your unique measurements with knit ties and neck! Think W & S, using their Classic, bespoke suits that are constructed from the natural. Among many others, it is still his style is very much bit. The 6th floor, Suresh explains Classic and luxury menswear and plush, it is soft and more.! Does the outfitting margins to other bespoke tailors for clients relatively quickly while total! Purely on craft, yes, a small change in lapel width is fine ( got the suit while was..., to see the master tailor boot reviews, mostly of the jacket shows that this is. I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial it! To share my experience/pictures in 4-5 weeks when it is still whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke style thinking very seriously commissioning. Not the higher weight to different styles, but it really depends on the bespoke service at &! A third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and.. Consider both of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive i might find one experience of doing so on... Been a cutter for about 10 years i find it an interesting feature.., is their normally a third fitting? that this balance is not correct more fittings in with... And boot reviews, mostly of the jacket, and a slightly fuller.! Where i might find one, great guys and i whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke not sure it!

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